THEUruguay one of the smallest and least visited states in South America, known to most because there is the famous Punta del Este, basically the summer branch of Buenos Aires. I have been there 3 times in my life, the first to do my classic backpacking on the road and many public buses and the other two because in one of my numerous trips to Buenos Aires I met a girl from Montevideo who over the years has became one of my dearest friends.
If you are looking for an authentic country, you love semi-deserted places, you like small villages, Uruguay is the country for you.
How to reach Uruguay:
There are both direct intercontinental flights from Madrid, both from the USA and to other South American states, although most people get there by sea. In fact, from Puerto Madero, the port of Buenos Aires, ships continuously leave for Montevideo or Colonia de Sacramento. The route most chosen by tourists is the one towards Colonia, a delightful colonial village, so you have the opportunity to stop for a couple of hours, explore the area and continue by bus to Montevideo or Punta del Este.
The Uruguayans and Mate
What will immediately catch your eye is that everyone on the street is drinking mate and has a thermos under their arm. You may have seen before today that mate is a typical drink of Argentina, but in reality it is a typical drink of the Rio de Janeiro countries, but the difference is the way in which it is drunk. In Argentina it is both a convivial and meditative practice, you drink when you relax, when you spend time with friends, in Uruguay however it is always present, like a cigarette between your fingers, they drink mate all day, even in the car , even while they work. There must always be a hot thermos next to a Uruguayan.
Travel itinerary in Uruguay:
Scaramento Colony:
It is a delightful little village with cobbled streets, low houses in pastel colours, gardens full of bougainvillea, it is a mix of Spanish and Portuguese colonial architecture, declared a UNESCO heritage site in '95. I recommend a visit to the Lighthouse, from which you will enjoy a wonderful view, getting lost in the alleys, stopping in some little bar for a coffee or lunch and appreciating the majesty of the Plaza Mayor and its very famous Scaramento Cathedral, one of the most ancient ones of Uruguay.
Montevideo:
Many say it is a small Buenos Aires, well yes perhaps we could say that, but for me Baires doesn't compare us with anyone else. The center of Montevideo, also called Microcentro, is where both the political and economic life of the city vibrates, with government buildings and the various banks and private companies that have their headquarters in these large modern buildings. Start from Plaza Independence to get to know this side of the city and nearby, the old city also begins, with its small streets and its famous street lamps, still original from the past century.
If you love the history of independence I suggest a visit to the Fort and its prison, in the museum you will learn a lot about the history of Artigas, the undisputed hero of the country.
In the afternoon I recommend a walk along the Rambla, the seafront that embraces the entire bay, 22km that can be covered on foot or by bike, a place loved by Montevideans, who choose it to play sports or simply sip mate.
The most fashionable places for shopping and going out in the evening are definitely Palermo and Punta Carreta, ok yes, this part actually looks a lot like Buenos Aires.
Punta del Este:
Punta is a very modern seaside town, let's say American style, a large port, restaurants, clubs and many boats. Incredible to think that the chaos and the people are there for less than two months, between the Christmas holidays and the month of February, in this period, a delirium, the rest of the year super quiet. As happens in many places, the real fashionable parties are not in clubs, but in private locations, perhaps hidden in the woods or among the dunes, where people only arrive by word of mouth. Punta del Este is also one of the few places where it is possible to swim, as this coast has very strong waves.
Josee Ignacio
It is actually a fraction of Punta, but the most fashionable of all, it is where all the Latin American stars have their villas. If you want to spot someone I suggest a day in Huella, and remember that on the beach in Uruguay there can also be arctic winds, so bring a sweatshirt. My favorite spot in San Ignacio is Punta Ballena, in addition to being super panoramic, it is the place where there is House Museum of Carlos Paz Vilarò a great artist, sculptor, poet, I suggest a visit to his house museum, even better if at sunset.
Devil's Point:
I've always liked this place a lot, it's a very young place, there are lots of hostels, houses for rent, little beach bars where parties are organised. In the summer it is truly a powerhouse of energy, as I was saying, coming out of the high season, the Argentine and Uruguayan tourists leave 3 and it becomes more of a destination for foreigners. There is a beautiful large beach, with a small fishing village, a lighthouse, the dunes behind the beach, it is a place to observe the sea for hours; this coast is very wild, there are often storm surges, many houses have huge windows overlooking the ocean precisely because they know the meditative power of the ocean.
Cano Polonio
One of the most special places I've ever been. It is located within a protected area so it can only be accessed with authorized vehicles, everything turns into a very panoramic stretch of road traveled with huge trucks that run along the shoreline for many kilometers. When I was there there was neither electricity nor running water, each house had a generator and a cistern. It's definitely a hippie place and as we like to say now, perfect for digital detox. It must be said that there is nothing! A few houses that can be rented, very few people who live there all year round and only two hostels. In a couple of hours you know everyone. In the evening you sit around the fire with blankets and look at an immense blanket of stars, sipping mate or a beer. Stories are told, someone plays, yes in fact it's really hippy, perfect for curious travelers looking for a meeting.
Being in a natural park you can meet many animals, wild and otherwise, one evening I ended up sleeping on the beach wrapped in blankets and I woke up at dawn because a group of wild horses were running on the sand.
You can take wonderful walks, get lost in the details of the sand, in the nuances of the waves and be amazed at every bush that grows vigorously from the sand. It is certainly not a destination for those seeking comfort, but you will undoubtedly have a unique experience!
Minas Gerais
The hinterland of Uruguay is highly cultivated, a bit like the scenario we imagine of the gauchos who travel their lands on horseback with their saddlebags. Let's say that you will encounter several. There are many colonial villages like Minas, many fincas, obviously also transformed into luxury hotels where you can come and relax, taste wine and above all eat the best asado of your life.
It is generally said that the best meat is in Argentina, but in my opinion the Uruguayan one surpasses it, I was lucky to see both countries with local people and I must admit that the best meat of my life I ate in a restaurant in Montevideo.
I hope it has intrigued you to try a different South American experience than usual, full of authenticity.
