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In the heart of the city of Valletta, the splendid pearl of Malta, lies the suggestive Co-cathedral dedicated to St. John the Baptist: within its imposing walls, together with many beautiful masterpieces, it even houses two works by Caravaggio, , behind which lies a truly incredible story.
The Co-Cathedral was built starting from 1573, on the basis of a grandiose project commissioned by Jean de la Cassiere, Grand Master of the Order of the Knights of Malta. It took just a few years to create what is a true architectural masterpiece, which rivals the splendid churches of Rome in beauty and majesty. In the following centuries, further additions enriched the main building, creating the enormous monumental complex which today is protected by UNESCO for its historical and artistic importance.
From the outside, the Co-Cathedral located in Valletta has a particularly austere and sober appearance, with two tall bell towers that delimit the facade. But once you have crossed its threshold, you will discover the wonder that lies inside: the enormous central nave welcomes, in its floor in precious marble, as many as 400 tombstones which host as many Knights of the Order. On the side, splendid chapels dedicated to the main nationalities of the members of the Order, they open with infinite beauty showing splendid works of art.
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The walls are carved in stone with 24 carat gold sheets, while the ceiling vaults are richly frescoed with valuable paintings by the Calabrian Mattia Pretti, which gave birth to 18 episodes inspired by the life of Saint John the Baptist. The main altar, inlaid in polychrome marble and decorated with gold and silver inserts, presents scenes of the Last Supper. Behind him, the imposing marble group of the Baptism of Christ del Mazzuoli is a true jewel.
But it is within theOratory of the Knights, added later as a place intended to collect the prayers of members of the Order, that we can today admire Caravaggio's masterpiece. It's about the Beheading of Saint John the Baptist, placed on the altar: it is the artist's largest painting, and it is also the only one that features his signature - it is legible at the edges of the bloodstain that spreads under John the Baptist's neck.
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Caravaggio arrived at Malta in 1607, after a daring escape from Rome due to the murder of a man, for which he was sentenced to death. The painter came into contact with the Grand Master Alof de Wignacourt, who at the time had ordered the construction of the Oratory. His intention was to join the Order to find protection and thus escape arrest by the papal authorities. It is precisely at this juncture that he painted the Beheading of Saint John the Baptist, and it is said that he used it as commodity of exchange, so as to "pay" for entry into the Order.
Another work by Caravaggio, the Saint Jerome writing. Originally, it was part of the pictorial furnishings of the Chapel of Italy, but was later moved in front of the Beheading of St. John the Baptist inside the Oratory.
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